lee's locked bowline
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Once the rope end comes undone, what will happen when loaded is obvious, as demonstrated near the end in my video. Essentially, Double Bowline keeps all the basic principles (and hence cons) of the standard Bowline, but advances some of them. Often, the ‘losing’ knot is superior!

People make mistakes tying-in with #1047 F8 (I refer you to the accident reported by Robert Chisnall (17 September 2015 at Lac Larouche, Quebec Canada) where a female climber failed to properly tie her Figure 8 tie-in knot to her harness. Using gate driver MIC4427 with 24V supply. You are publishing your article to the world via the internet and as such, you need to make sure that the information you convey is accurate (which it is not). I wasn't sure how to addres the "yosimitee bowline", there are a couple variations I've seen (they all double the initial loop and all tie the end off with a half hitch, but sometimes the end-strand passes back through the knot, so that its on the climbing end, sometimes it ends in the main loop of the bowline), I wasn't sure if / how to address that, because I was hesitant to recommend one or the other. What Point(s) of Departure Would I Need for Space Colonization to Become a Common Reality by 2020?

Reply: This statement is factually incorrect.

Does this include destinations visited via Cruise Ships? The issue is that content writers like to report instances of tie-in mistakes with certain knots that promote their views. The Great Outdoors Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for people who love being outdoors enjoying nature and wilderness, and learning about the required skills and equipment. The proposition tendered by that person could apply to any knot - to single out Scotts locked Bowline is non-sensical. A mention should be given to Edwards Bowline. For reference, I have relied heavily on An Analysis of the Structure of Bowlines by Mark Gommers of PACI (Professional Association of Climbing Instructors). That means the acceptable probability of mistying the harness tying-point is smaller than 1 in 10 millions, or 0.00001%. Just as a security note concerning the phrasing of the question: This knot can not be called a very safe knot, certainly not a completely safe knot (the existence of such a thing is generally debatable).

or. Basically, a tiny bit of mistying, or even just a bit of wiggle during a course of a day, could cause a serious weakening of the strength of the knot.

This is one of the reasons why I am releasing my technical papers into the public domain (free-of-charge)…to provide a technically accurate reference material which will hopefully filter through to the masses and improve our collective knowledge. 5. There are 4 levels of competency as follows:

It’s too fiddly and for me I don’t trust myself to get it right. I recommend that you review the paper on ‘Bowlines’ at this link: This failure mode can be induced in both orientations of the tail.

Unfortunately, I don't agree with your point against anti-Lapp Knot configuration – I would appreciate the reference to support your argument, if you could give one – and hence the discussion that follows. Product/Service. This rarity has occasionally created a certain brand of stigma and even led some to denounce the bowline as a death knot. For example, if you want to compare particular off-road 4WD (SUV) vehicle against another vehicle, you need to select another 4WD (SUV). By definition, any knot that requires additional tail manoeuvres (e.g.

That person simply posted an experience that he was involved with - with a deliberately loosened knot and a deliberately induced snag. Your question is a very good one. The simple #1010 Bowline was never intended for life critical applications - it was discovered hundreds of years ago (likely by sailors) and used on the high seas. Clearly, the answer is "No". Examples of secure Bowlines include: Scotts locked Bowline, EBSB Bowline and Lee's link Bowline; all of which are totally secure and stable. In this use case the knot should hold perfectly. Variants will be referred to by their respective titles. Mark Gommers, Submitted by MH (not verified) on Thu, 2018-06-28 10:48. There is some limited data from a 2016 German study on climbing gym accidents, and the findings reported that “the most serious crashes were all due to mating failures – a proper and consistent partner check could easily prevent such accidents”. Great article Ryan, really enjoyed the read! In my blog post a year ago, Cross-loading on knots, I argued Bowline knots are vulnerable to cross-loading, and I also referred to a YouTube video "Yosemite Bowline not safe for climbing" (by "Yosemite Bowline" — seemingly the one-time account), which warns a potential danger of Yosemite Bowline (see also the extensive discussion in the UKC forum). Personally, I still use a Figure 8.

But it is known that this type of Bowline is not secure - so why base your article on a structure that is already known to be insecure? It wasn’t intended for rock climbing. Gommers observed that the collar of the End Bound Single Bowline (EBSB) was able to be manipulated under 10kN of force, which is to say that you can place a metric ton of force on the knot and still shift the collar by hand.


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